LED masks and other light therapy devices are invading our bathrooms and offering benefits: anti-wrinkle, anti-pimples, radiance enhancer… How effective are they? The experts enlighten us.
On social networks, we only see celebrities transformed into Robocop or Daft Punk praising the effects of LED masks on their radiant complexions. A non-invasive, completely painless and safe treatment that is all the rage as an alternative to injections, especially since Covid. Yesterday reserved for dermatologists’ offices, these LED-based treatments have entered our homes in all forms and at all prices. “LED technology will tomorrow make it possible to replace WiFi with LiFi, without radio waves and without danger to health,” even affirms Frédéric Granotier, president of Lucibel, specialist in LED-based lighting and creator of OVE, the most spectacular masks on the market.
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Before investing, a minimum of clarity is essential. And above all, let’s be precise: the exact term for this new generation light therapy is “photobiomodulation”. And it doesn’t come out of the hat since NASA was the first to take an interest in it and demonstrate its effect on the healing of astronauts in weightlessness.
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LED light in 12 questions
For more than twenty years, dermatologists and aesthetic doctors have used it to treat acne, soothe and repair the skin after a peel or a laser session. Without forgetting light therapy (white light) used for a long time against seasonal depression. Medical photobiomodulation is also developing in oncology (for follow-up to radiotherapy, for example) and in neurology against Alzheimer’s disease. And for our skin?
We keep hearing that light is dangerous. SO ?
“UV, yes,” confirms Géraldine Decaux, founder of Lightinderm. They burn and break DNA strands, but light is like oxygen, Dr. Jekyll and Mr. Hyde, the poison and the antidote. The skin has many photoreceptors, different depending on the wavelength. And as plants make leaves and oxygen with the sun, we have our own photosynthesis. The skin transforms light energy into cellular energy which allows it to do its job, to fight against aggression and inflammation, to detoxify, and to produce and organize proteins, including collagen.”
Karina Twiss. Model aliz menyhert @marilyn agency
Blue, green or red, what’s the difference?
Each wavelength has its action. Blue light, purifying, plays on the skin microbiota, helps treat skin irregularities, blackheads, blackheads and enlarged pores; green has a demonstrated effect on capillary vessels and pigmentation. In the field of anti-aging, the red/infrared couple would be the most effective. Exactly, two wavelengths: 633 for red light and 830 for infrared.
What exactly does red (and infrared) light do?
It modulates living things, hence its name photobiomodulation. The light energy reaches the mitochondria, the energy center of the cell and stimulates the natural biological processes of regeneration, promotes the production of skin proteins (including collagen), elastin, hyaluronic acid. “It is above all antioxidant and anti-inflammatory,” adds Dr François Michel, dermatologist, specialist in photobiomodulation since 2006. I use it a lot and have done tens of thousands of treatments. Good results are also obtained in cases of pregnancy mask (chloasma) and stretch marks. In terms of preventing aging, it gives radiance, smoothes, firms, calms redness.”
There is no miracle either. LED will not make a deep wrinkle, which is a break in the dermis, disappear, but it can prevent it from happening.
Carole Amar, founder of Nooance
Carole Amar, founder of Nooance, one of the latest brands to arrive on the market, plays it straight: “There are no miracles either. It will not make a deep wrinkle which is a break in the dermis disappear. But she can stop it from happening. » Géraldine Decaux adds: “From a certain age and in the event of greater relaxation, light alone is not enough. It must be combined with other non-invasive treatments, such as massages, mesotherapy, radiofrequency or HIFU ultrasound.”
Karina Twiss. Model aliz menyhert @marilyn agency
We also talk about effects on the mind…
“Yes, light provides well-being, it’s proven,” replies the Dr Michael. In fact, it balances, energizes the depressed and calms the anxious. It even stimulates the cognitive abilities of the brain and improves sleep. » However, it is advisable to choose blue light in the morning and red in the evening. “We must consider this treatment as a pleasure and well-being ritual, a new daily gesture,” insists Géraldine Decaux, “but there is no need to saturate the skin. The studies are carried out on a given protocol. You have to trust it.”
This treatment must be considered as a ritual of pleasure and well-being, a new daily gesture
Géraldine Decaux, founder of Lightinderm
Are at-home masks as effective as professional treatments?
At the dermatologist, the machines are generally more powerful and the sessions last longer. “They make it possible to treat more serious inflammations and pathologies, for example fibrous acne scars,” says Dr Michel. It has also been shown that for maximum effectiveness, the light must be in contact with the skin, covering the eye and mouth area well, which is not the case with panels with which we lose light. useful energy. Hence the interest in masks and other commercial tools whose diodes touch the face. At home, each device has its specific protocol, often with pre-recorded programs. Some recommend using it a little every day for maintenance, others every two or three days in a cycle of one or two months.
Karina Twiss. Model aliz menyhert @marilyn agency
Starting at what age ?
“From the age of 15, if you have acne. And then in prevention of aging, because we lose our collagen from the age of 20, explains Géraldine Decaux. And there is no limit. We see improvements well after 60 years.” In terms of results, allow around two weeks for the radiance and quality of the skin; between one and two months for wrinkles. And getting better and better after three months. “It works for everyone, all skin tones, including men, but for wrinkles, there are “super responders” for whom the effect is ten times greater than the average without us understanding why. », wonders Dr Michel. There are no contraindications. It is avoided on pregnant women, epileptics and in cases of ophthalmic migraines, but for no real scientific reason. Just as a precaution. “We carried out studies for seven years on precancerous cells,” explains Géraldine Decaux, “and we noted no suspicious mutations. There is also no danger for the eyes, with a small downside for the blue one. In all cases, we protect them to avoid glare.”
There are “super responders” for whom the effect turns out to be ten times higher than the average without us understanding why.
Dr François Michel, dermatologist, specialist in photobiomodulation
Should we use treatment before, after, or at all?
“It has been shown that light promotes the penetration of active ingredients and increases their effectiveness tenfold,” all our experts confirm. But if we put it before, it is better to use a watery and transparent serum. Most brands have developed a range of specific treatments to use in addition before, during or after the session. Some recommend exfoliating before to optimize the process.
And the body?
In anti-aging clinics, certain spas and medical practices, there are whole body panels, for well-being, against orange peel skin, stretch marks, to regulate the intestinal microbiota… At home, certain brands are starting to offer devices that adapt to body parts, including the head. Used on the scalp, the light slows down hair loss, stimulates the growth of remaining hair, provides density and shine.
How to choose the right device?
Not easy, because there is everything on the market. Favor those which are manufactured in France and which, above all, can present serious clinical studies (on the device in question and not general studies). Afterwards, it’s a question of ergonomics, comfort and lifestyle. You have to want to use it. Since it’s a long-term investment, make sure it offers multiple programs.